how hard could it be?

Kinja'd!!! "OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
07/24/2019 at 16:15 • Filed to: None

Kinja'd!!!0 Kinja'd!!! 7

my neighbor asked if I could help him replace some parts.

Kinja'd!!!

I’ll start with saying I have not looked into this at all. it all s tarted the other day when my neighbor was driving by my house. he stopped to chat and I noticed something hanging below his truck. It looked like it was a plastic skid plate over the gas tank. He brought it to a shop to have it looked at and they found that one of the straps holding his gas tank up had rusted through and failed. They replaced that but while they were under there, they said his rear end was leaking. They said either because of how it was leaking or how the thing is built, its easier (or he needs to) swap the whole rear end. I’m thinking just cut the leak spring brackets, disconnect the brake lines and drive shaft and the whole assembly should just roll out. Then swap any good parts from the old set up to the new and reattach everything. I also think that everything damn thing will be cover ed in rust and the whole job could just be an endless line of parts and sw earing. I really havn’t looke d up the truck to see what shape everything is in, but this is salt country, New England, I’m guessing its not good. (not actual truck but pretty close)


DISCUSSION (7)


Kinja'd!!! Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness > OPPOsaurus WRX
07/24/2019 at 16:49

Kinja'd!!!2

However hard you think its going to be, multiply by 10, then add another 5 just for goo d measure.


Kinja'd!!! benjrblant > OPPOsaurus WRX
07/24/2019 at 17:18

Kinja'd!!!2

a factory service manual can be downloaded from https://techinfo.toyota.com which will provide step-by-step instructions for installing and removing things, along with torque specs. I find them incredibly helpful and I highly recommend it.

There are a number of good parts websites with exploded diagrams. my go-to is usually toyotamarket.ru/us.

having said that... good luck. 


Kinja'd!!! wafflesnfalafel > OPPOsaurus WRX
07/24/2019 at 17:57

Kinja'd!!!0

maybe have him spray the whole underside of the truck with anti- sei ze the day before or something...


Kinja'd!!! Urambo Tauro > wafflesnfalafel
07/24/2019 at 19:21

Kinja'd!!!0

Anti-seize ... spray? How did I not know this was a thing? Been using b rushes, tubes, sticks, but I’ve never seen it in spray form. Huh.

Okay, so maybe you meant penetrating oil , but still... Google confirms that anti-seize spray is indeed a thing. Guess I’ll have to try it out sometime.


Kinja'd!!! Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's > Urambo Tauro
07/25/2019 at 03:18

Kinja'd!!!0

Pb blaster is magic in a can. Works best by spraying the offending bolts/brackets days in advance and as often as possible before beginning the work. It wont do much just spraying things are you remove them, but does still help. However, rear end leaking requires total removal? Sounds like BS. Its most likely just the seal for the pinion input since its a solid rear axle. Should be accessible by removing the driveshaft


Kinja'd!!! Urambo Tauro > Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's
07/25/2019 at 07:21

Kinja'd!!!0

Yeah, I’m familiar with PB B’ laster. It’s a penetrating oil, used as you described: prior to disassembly. Anti-seize is the opposite: used during assembly , to prevent future seizing.


Kinja'd!!! Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's > Urambo Tauro
07/25/2019 at 09:50

Kinja'd!!!1

Ah yes my 3am brain double derped. Ive only used anti-seize a few times, since I dont plan to do the same work twice really ever. And the only bolts ive ever had totally seize on me are exhaust flange bolts. I dont remove my exhaust more than once ever